Two years ago last month we evacuated from a town about a
hundred miles from where I now sit ten minutes before it was bombed. Ever since
then, with the exception of six months that we were parked in a friend’s house
in Dallas, TX, we have been living out of suitcases. Literally. We’ve stayed in
more guest bedrooms and guesthouses than I can count scattered across five
different countries. We’ve celebrated birthdays, anniversaries and a few major
holidays on the go and had a baby along the way in there somewhere too. During
a few visits with relatives and one sweet holiday week in Jinja, Uganda last month
Bryan and I shared a room alone, but other than that at least one baby, usually
two, has been in our room, sometimes our bed. All our belongings reside in
trunks, the sturdy plastic kind you get at Wal-mart, and have a stateside
address written in permanent marker fading under the sticky remnants of duct
tape. They are a royal pain to get in and out of every time you need a notebook
or pair of socks.
As traumatic as the events surrounding our hurried departure
from North Africa were two years ago, that experience has been in many ways far
easier than the wearing toil of two years of constant travel and homelessness.
We have been in one place (more or less) for the last six
months. We have settled in a refugee camp just across the border from where we
used to live; it is home now to about 45,000 people, including almost all of
our old friends and neighbors. And despite certain realities here that everyone
is coming to terms with, it is a good place to be.
On May 23rd we broke ground on a house and launched
into a huge building project. It is difficult to overstate the difficulty of
building a simple house here (we are talking cement blocks and tin roof – but
granted it has three little bedrooms and an office). The logistics of getting
building supplies to a place that does not sell so much as a two-inch nails in
the market and whose unpaved rainy season roads have been unpassable for a
while still makes my brain hurt. And the volume of cement used to make my new
walls so smooth when a single bag costs as much as $45 honestly makes me feel
like throwing up a little bit. This has been a difficult, expensive project.
During these last few months that we have watched
foundations being dug and walls slowly go up we have lived in a tukul on our
compound, a 4X8 meter mud hut with a grass roof. You have heard me talk about
the tukul before. It was charming at first, cozy and unpretentious. But tukuls
aren’t designed to be lived in exactly. They are to be slept in. So when I
tried cramming all my wal-mart trunks full of crap into it and then tried to
make space to cook in it, put my kids down for naps in it, sit at the computer
and write a blog in it, so on and so forth, not just because that is what we do
in houses where I come from but also because twenty men with wheelbarrows and
hacksaws were covering every inch of space outside … I gallantly led my whole
family on a slow but very steady descent into insanity.
In the end it was really the rats that did me in. I am a
messy person by nature, and the carefully landscaped piles of laundry, books
and kitchenware in every bit of livable space was really just a mild irritant
on most days (don’t ask Bryan about it). The ants coming up through the floor
were not a big deal and two babies a few feet away from us every night was a
little bit endearing really. But the rats. Oh my goodness, the rats.
I could write volumes about the rats. About how they learn
to nudge the trap to set it off without risking their lives and then eat the
bait and anything else they want. About how they sound when the light goes out
and what starts as one or two scurries above and behind you becomes a
full-blown horror-movie style closing in from every direction. About how the
sweet relief of silence is really the shivering of rodent terror broken only by
whiskery screams as the snake chases granddaddy rat from behind one of the
trunks and just past baby’s pack n’ play. About how when they finally breached
the mosquito net fortress I just gave up on sleep all together and waited the
36 hours until the front door was nailed on the new house so I could move in. There
were days I eyed the matchbox behind my stove and thought about how much I
would love to shoo my family out the front door and then delicately light the
whispy edge of my roof and sit perched in a nearby tree with a BB gun and shoot
every living thing that came out right between the eyes.
It was not a pretty season.
I tell you all of this not to make you feel sorry for me or
reflect on how tough I am or sit astounded by the sheer absurdity of putting
oneself in this situation intentionally. I tell you this – all of this – the
evacuation, the travel, the tukul and the construction site all because I want
you to understand just a taste of how incredibly happy I am right now. To feel
just a flicker of the absolute joy and relief I am experiencing.
I am in my new house.
For the past three nights I have slept in a bed with my
husband in a room with no children anywhere in site. I have bathed under a roof
and between cement walls without frogs hopping on my toes. I have cooked dinner
in a kitchen with cement counters and enough room to make about as big a mess
as I want to. I have plopped my babies down on a wide empty floor and not
worried about them being eaten alive by stinging ants. And when I wake up to
animal noises at night it is only the cry of the white owls in the huge baobab
tree outside my wide windows. And I just say, Dear God, please let them be eating rats, and then roll over and
fall back asleep.
For the first time since Bryan and I were married we are
living in a place we can imagine being in for ten years or more. For the first
time in their lives my daughters have their own room. And for the first time in
two years, I feel like I can unpack my trunks.
Bryan reminded me tonight not to be devastated when the
honeymoon ends and I realize I don’t have any furniture (yet), the house is
only partially wired for electricity so far and we are still taking bucket
baths and eating lentils. And he’s right. Whatever the reasons, bad days will
come again.
But, praise the Lord, they will come in my house. They will come in my house where I have a room to cry in
or a kitchen to knead frustrated bread in or a floor to just sit on and love my
babies. And after those bad days have barged in my front door, swept through
the living room and then slipped out the back door and disappeared off the
porch, I will still be here. Here in a place where I can think about what
dreams I will dream in these walls, what words I will write, what conversations
I will have with my husband. About what things will make me laugh and what
things will make me cry. When I leave this house someday in the future, what
things about me will be the same and what things will have changed.
A house is not everything. The Important Things have been
with me all along, in the airplanes and guesthouses and tukul. And I am more
thankful for them than I have ever been before.
A house is not everything. But tonight it feels like so
much.
Beautifully said, Libby. So happy for you guys! I know this feeling--when we moved to Fort Portal we had been vagabonds for two years. Unpacking to stay is a sweet relief. Blessings on your new home and to your sweet family!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for sharing such encouraging, funny, and truthful words! I'm glad you are in your house! Praying for safety and peace....and numerous blessings on your family!
ReplyDeleteLibby, your blog is one of my favorite things on this planet. You think I am joking, but I am not. Please post more! More! More! Your writing is delicious to read. It is eloquent, funny, piercing, and often breath taking. I love the way you can put words to your experiences and I love hearing about your life. You also put to words some things for me that I could never express the way you do. I wish we lived where a cup of tea now and then was a possibility. Much love to you and blessings on your new home.
ReplyDeleteIt is so good to feel at home. We are finally getting settled in China and it is nice to have a little place to yourself. Praying for you all!
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