Letter to Kaltoum

Dear Kaltoum,

Greetings from the Deep South. It is raining here. Last night it poured down for hours and lightning struck somewhere close enough that it smelled like smoke in the midst of the storm. I wonder if it has rained yet where you are. Probably not. I wish there was some way you could tell me.

Bryan spoke to Musa for just a couple of minutes two nights ago and I hovered nearby snatching up scraps of information as I could. I told Bryan to tell Musa to greet you, as I am sure he has by now. Musa said you are taibaan shadiid, and I think my heart broke a little when I heard these words. I am so sorry you are suffering my friend. I wish you knew the crushing sense of helplessness I feel when I hear you and your children and the whole community are hungry, that you haven’t eaten for days. I think of the pasta and flour that is probably rotting behind the doors we left so tightly locked behind us and feel sick. Bryan told Nehemiah to give Musa some extra money with his salary this month. My deepest prayer is that some of that will reach you and Nariman, Samani and Kajija.

How are your children? I imagine Nariman still leading packs of children across the camp and getting into trouble. She is beautiful and strong, like you. Someday she will be a leader. Samani is probably still quiet, never wandering too far from your side. And Kajija? She is the one I worry about. After you carried her in your womb so many hungry miles when you ran, she has always been small and hungry. I remember you telling me how she cries like a cat whenever she smells meat. Has she been healthy? I pray for her often.

My girls are well and send their greetings. Mariam is walking, almost running, and tries her best to keep up with her sister, which is no small feat. Hana is more herself every day, unafraid, stubborn, clever. You would laugh to see her climbing the termite mound next door with a group of little boys.

Do you often wear the tobe I left you? I am sorry it was not something more practical but I hope it makes you think of me sometimes and know I am thinking of you. It was the first one I ever bought all those years ago in K. Do you remember those days? Days when we would sit on the back porch and talk while you washed my dishes and I sat with a notebook and pen and fumbled through my crippled Arabic. And then later days when my Arabic was a bit more comprehensible and we talked about deeper things like marriage, circumcision and childbirth. When I think of you and that back porch I often think of me leaning over the edge and retching while you laughed and said I was carrying a girl. And you were right, weren’t you?

Sometimes I wish life would have played out like we all hoped it would back then. Maybe then we would still be there in K, before you ran to D and then I ran here. Maybe then we would have sat on that back porch and you could have taught me your language and I could have taught you to read, and then letters like this could actually be possible between us. But then again, if we were in the same place we wouldn’t need letters to talk would we?

Please greet the others – Limon, Omsalama, Senowia, Rella, Sunday, and so on – tell them I pray for their children too. Prayers seem like such a small thing to offer. Sometime I confess I doubt how the silent words I murmur in the dark under my mosquito net could ever turn into sorghum in your daughter’s belly. But my faith is perhaps not as strong as yours, at least not as tested. Maybe my prayers just turn to courage in your bones or peace in your heart or the simple knowledge that someday everything will be different. Things will be different someday. That much I do believe. But, if prayers give you comfort, know they are yours in abundance. If prayers are of value to you, you are rich beyond measure.

Finally, do you remember the story you told me about the boy whose mother turned into a bird? I can only remember the first two lines to the song she sang him. When I see you again you must remind me of the rest because I keep singing those two lines over and over. It is such a pretty song.

Love and blessings on you, my friend. You who bear childhood scars of shrapnel, you who birthed one baby outside your house alone and another on the side of the road, you who lost your firstborn to sickness and your husband to neglect, you who are beautiful and proud and unafraid to laugh and unafraid to cry, you are my friend and my inspiration and one of the strongest women I know. May that strength sustain you. 

May God be with you always,

Libby

     

Letter to Mama

Dear Mama,

It was so good to hear your voice last night! I am so sorry I still can’t get your texts, even with my new SIM card. Bummer. I am glad you can still get mine though. While we were talking I was sitting in a camping hammock that Bryan strung up under a huge mango tree near the house. It was pitch black outside but the mosquitoes are yet to be back in full force since the rains have started so I just swayed in the dark and listened to the fruitbats chirp and whirl over your voice in my ear. If you hadn’t been paying a fortune to call me I would have told you all about where I was in that moment and how much it reminded me of sitting in the mango tree in the back yard at night growing up and waiting for Papa to scare the bats back over from the guava tree to where we perched waiting for them. Sometimes I still can’t believe you let us do that! But then I overhear other mothers whisper to their children, “Just because Annabelle does it doesn’t mean you can!” and I laugh inside I feel like I understand you better every day. Thanks for letting us sit in the mango tree at night.

Things are going well here. It’s all been a bit of a whirlwind actually. Bryan and I finally sat down and had the “What if…” conversation last week and are facing the fact that we won’t be back in D in the next few months. There continues to be a steady decline in security that is quite concerning. I almost obsessively scour the news and twitter feeds searching for any scraps of information available from anyone anywhere (the phone network has been down for well over a week; we can’t get a hold of anyone) and every little thing I read just feels like a new stone in my stomach. We are past the point of hoping this will be over quickly and are just left now praying that it will in fact be over.

That being said we confronted the question of what to do in the meantime. It’s far too soon to jump ship to something new. A year, even two in the big scheme of things could be manageable I think (though we are still hoping it won’t be that long) if we could still pick up the pieces on the other side of all this. But the truth is sitting and waiting all this out in Nairobi or Kampala sounds truly awful to me. Running water and frozen yoghurt can just go only so far in filling the deeper needs of the soul. And there is a certain kind of emptiness that makes ever the most luxurious limbo unbearable.

And then we looked around here in M and thought, “We could stay here for a while.” It was as simple as that. Melinda had already suggested it, only-half in jest, and we have been so encouraged by how easy it is to communicate and slip into simple life routines without too many ripples. We could keep working towards our goals for the J people from a distance, unideal yes, but possible. And to be honest I am thrilled at the thought of helping out with the literacy programs here. I need some experience so badly and Melinda is even holding a Writers Workshop next month with a focus on helping women who have been affected by the war write their stories. Isn’t that amazing? I feel like it will finally give me the chance to try my hand at my own dream job!

Anyway, if the approval of our colleagues here and regional leadership wasn’t enough, on a cursory walk through the neighborhood we found a simple cement and zinc roofed house just behind Melinda and Leah’s place that is available to rent. I prayed so hard that if this wasn’t the right move that the rent would be outrageous. But it wasn’t. So….

It looks like I will be living in a little pastel house (currently full of bats) on the side of a little rocky hill in M for the next few months! This realization brought with it a tidal wave of emotions for me. The excitement of setting up our own place (and by setting up I mean buying a few jicky bowls and chairs from the market) and resting into just being for a little while. The heartbreak of fully embracing not being where I most want to be and the fear of putting in even the most shallow of roots again.

There are passing moments where I am washed over with a wave of deep contentment and sheer happiness. I feel this way walking around the market picking out fabric to make dresses for the girls, or walking with Melinda and my family to church, or sitting outside in the evening and drinking a cup of tea while the girls play in the dirt. But these moment catch my off guard and take my breath away in a way that makes me wonder if they are unexpected, and if so why. Are they the exception?

Some of my happiest moments, and I’m almost embarrassed to concede this, are not moments of particularly articulate Arabic usage or preparing for a Writers Workshop. They are standing over a cantankerous burner, stir-frying a wilted cabbage I was thrilled to find on a mat on the ground in the market and seasoning in with nam-pla to make Thai food for my hungry daughters. Who would have thought that the potent smells of Thailand would have travelled with you from Asia to East Africa and on North with me. I wonder where they will follow your grand-daughters some day. But anyway, I am never happier than when I am feeding someone or cleaning up behind someone. Not very romantic I’m afraid, but thankfully not very hard to come by either. I guess my chances are quite good of being pretty happy for the foreseeable future.

I should close. You should be working on one of your grad school papers instead of reading this novel and I need to go to bed. Bryan is slumped over on the table next to me and the bugs are getting bold.

I love you more than I can say. Kiss Papa for me.

Love,

Elizabeth 

Letter Home

Dear Family,

 I sat down to blog but have been staring at the blinking stationary curser for so long I decided to write you instead. Somehow imagining you on the other side of the screen, reading my words on your phones in your classroom or on your laptops in the living room after a long day of work makes me happy. It seems like I always have words when I am talking to you!

We arrived safely in M yesterday. The day started early, the taxi came to the house in Nairobi at five (!) but we just bundled the still sleeping babies into the car and headed to the airport in the chilly dark. It is amazing to see Nairobi without traffic. We were travelling heavier than I would have liked, but I am coming to terms with the fact that our days of the big travel packs only are long gone and to just gracefully receive the flurry of proferred help from “porters” at the airport who grapple with our trunks, pack n’ play (“What is this again?”) and diaper bag.

Mkat slept most of the way to J which was nice for me. We had a pretty tight connection to the MAF shuttle so I was braced for chaos when we all shuffled off the plane, trading out light sweaters for sunglasses and hats, while digging for passports and pens to fill out immigration cards in the sheer pandemonium that is the J International Airport (One of our favorite games to play at the J airport is the “Imagine-what-so-and-so-would-be-like-here.” Perhaps not the most gracious game in the world but good for a laugh when the kids are about to melt and the immigration officer is just about to hassle you for some stamp you didn’t know you needed). Good gosh I hope they get the new airport built soon. Even with the crowd-thinning conflict of late that has driven a number of NGOs away (and not only NGOs. You should have seen how many people were packing out the plane (after plane after plane) that were heading back North to K. The good ol’ “We were better off back in Egypt!” effect.) that place is crazy. Anyway, never underestimate the charm of two little Khawaja girls in SS, melting or not. They charmed the pants off of just about every 8 foot weapon-wielding military police officer in the joint as we sashayed through security, immigration and security again without so much as a raised eyebrow (other than the ones directed at our children running between peoples legs and shaking strangers hands).

Anyway, we weren’t in J more than an hour or two so and never left the airport so we never saw any signs of the recent fighting. (There were even some skirmishes as recently as last week.) Everyone was friendly and crazy and happy, just like usual. And even a part of me shudders with relief every time I leave that city, a part of me was experiencing a great surge of happiness to be back.

We have been so warmly received by our teammates in M; they have made us feel right at home. We are staying in a dense village on the edge of town on Leah and Melinda’s compound. Leah is travelling out of country so we are staying in her tukul. Melinda has her own tukul with an attached kitchen that she is graciously sharing. But when you hear tukul please don’t imagine the mud-walled rat-infested monstrosity of days gone by (you were there Abigail, you know what I speak of!). These have brick walls with painted ceiling and indoor shower areas (bucket baths but inside). They have city power until 11 at night and there is plenty of space for beds for the girls. And no rats! It just feels so homey. Dave and Bre even brought by a basket of groceries for us to use too (you can get BlueBand here, and you should see the fruit!!!!).

M is a fascinating mix of all the Africas I have ever known, or at least my experience of it is. Mama and Papa, the area we are staying in reminds me quite a bit of Mutangani in the old days. It is a closely clustered village, mostly mud and thatch but a cement house here and there, some with tin roofs. The mango trees are thick and huge and heavy with mangoes not quite ripe enough to be pelting the village but soon we will be inundated from above. People are friendly but familiar enough with our teammates that we feel welcomed but not besieged with Khawaja curiosity. Annabelle has been thrilled at her renewed barefoot freedom and spent the morning next door with a cluster of kids playing kick-the-mango and eating fried sweet potato. Clothing (I feel so naked without my head covered), stuff in the shops and even the terrain are so reminiscent of East Africa to me. Even so, communication has been a lot easier than I feared it would be (people say we have the “hard” Arabic but seem to understand us) and everything from food and tea shops feel very familiar. Bryan pointed out last night that we have lived in two places in S that were at war until 2003 at least (current conflict notwithstanding of course) while M hasn’t seen war since the 80s. You can tell the difference.

We are not yet sure how long we will be here. Maybe a couple of weeks, maybe longer. Probably longer actually. If a miracle happens we will go home to D at the end of the month. But Bryan talked to Musa the other day and it seems very unlikely that it will be safe enough to go back yet. The UN just did another food distribution that was close to half of what the refugees normally get, just lentils and oil. The conflict at large has completely disrupted supply lines and now there is no more food to give and people are hungry. Last week fighting between refugees (the J were not involved) and the host community left over 120 houses and tents burned to the ground and several people dead. So now there are displaced people within displaced people camps. And anti-government forces continue to build near the border of our county (one of three left in the state still held by the government). So none of it sounds good.

But then again, if I talk about all the things that “don’t sound good” and they sign a peace agreement tomorrow and we are on the first plane home people will panic because of all the things I have told them before. It is just so hard to know what to say. Because on the other hand, D is one of the places that has still had no outright fighting at all yet. And that is certainly a good thing. So be careful what you tell people when they ask about us. We just don’t know what the future holds and don’t want to unfairly spin it in one way or the other. This could be a long difficult road for a lot of people, ourselves included, or this could just be a blip on the historical radar. As they say here, “Mafi zol barif ila Allah.” No one knows but God.

I don’t know. Sometimes I just feel like my arm is being shaved off slowly slowly, a bit with every news report or phone call. And I keep putting Neosporin and Mickey Mouse bandaids on the wound and it scabs over just in time for the next slice. Sometimes I worry that this shaving is all leading to my arm just getting shaved off completely. And if that is the case I would like to know that right now so I could get started with the business of learning to live without my arm instead of spending so much time healing something that is really just going to be a comparatively minor problem in the long run. But of course, none of us know what is going to get chopped off when do we? (Line of the day, you can quote me.) So I stick with my Neosporin and bandaids and keep about the business of healing. Maybe in the end it will just be a scar with a good story after all.

I love you guys so much. It’s fun to be emailing again, just like we did in the old days (though Mama, I will try to call you this evening, probably before you get this email actually. Our little internet modem hasn’t been able to connect yet so who knows when you will read this.) I feel like miss you all more and more the older I get, the more the girls grow, the more life gets muddled and in the process, illuminates those things that really matter. Anyway, we are counting the days until we see you.

Hugs and kisses all around,

Elizabeth

P.S. – Mama, do you have a good recipe for mango chutney? I left my cookbooks in D. and if we end up being here for a couple of months I may need one. ( :