Wednesday, December 25, 2013

Nativity

The Story is so much easier for me to imagine now than it once was. The images are perhaps no more factual than the blue-eyed cherub in a sanitized barn. But its truth is powerful to me today. This Christmas my heart is somewhere far away from where I now sit. And this story is a balm to my bruised heart.

He normally would be the one astride the donkey, his calves bobbing along the animal’s warm sides as they pick their way down the dirt road. But he had seen her stumble beneath the weight she hides gracefully under the gauzy folds of her tobe and watched her catch her breath with the gathering pain. So he helps her up onto the worn saddle and leads the animal carefully between the stones in the road. The grass one either side of them is dead and yellow, the air thick with the seasonally hot dust. He wipes sweat from his brow into the white sleeve of his jallabiya and glances back at her, not knowing what to ask her. But her eyes are closed.

By the time they reach the village the sun has sunk into a violently colored haze on the horizon and night is spreading her wings across the sky. A thin sickle moon and a single brilliant star hang caught in the silhouetted branches of a baobab tree. A skinny dog howls as they pass the first few huts on the outskirts of town. The scattering of lantern lights and the thick murmur of warm voices in the darkness around them marks the flood of people who have come home to be counted, as does the smell of smoke, urine and competitively thick perfumes. The twang of a traditional love song floats from the copse of neem trees where people have gathered to laugh and drink marissa out of clay pots through long reeds. A baby cries from somewhere close by. Donkeys bray in unison in the distance.

The first funduk owner actually greets them and offers explanation. The last bed…so many people…no relatives here? But the others are too busy to really notice the worried young man and quiet girl or to comment on the fact that she rides the donkey. They just continue drawing water from the barrels, shuffling trays full or leftover food or pouring cups of scalding mint tea, hardly looking up as they mutter, “Sorry we’re full.”

He is growing desperate when he salaams the final place, a homestead with a tin door half eaten with rust and no fence. The woman who uprights from over a cooking fire shakes her head before she even greets them, and waves her wooden spoon apologetically. His heart sinks as he hears the girl behind him catch her breath with another contraction. But then the woman squints into the darkness. “Yusif?” she says, “Yusif, walid Yakob?” His mother’s cousin cackles in recognition, then sighs and waves them in.

The rakoba is thick with smoke. The coals, the color of something living, feed the wood that keep the flies and approaching desert night chill away from the clan of goats and family of cows that crowd under the grass roof. He brushes pellets of manure away on the most level patch of sand and lowers her down. In the firelight he can see her flawless black skin is shiny with sweat, her brow furrowed in concentration. He wishes her sisters were here, the ones with broods of their own children who would support her while she squatted against the wall, shouting at her and berating her, pushing her to bring forth life with the crushing weight of love and tradition. But there is no time for that now, she stifles a scream and leans into him as he plumbs the depths of his heart for the strength they will both need.

They are both terrified until the moment the baby slips out of her torn and exhausted body. She falls back on the mat that Yusif’s relative has managed to scrounge up from somewhere and he looks at the baby in his hands – wet, pinkish grey and squalling. He has never held a baby this small before, never touched life this new. With tears he doesn’t fully understand straining at his eyes, he carefully unwinds the white ima from around his head and wraps it around his firstborn. Mariam’s beaded wrists are strong when she reaches out for the baby, despite her exhaustion. She pulls him close to her and then guides the breast Yusif has never touched to the baby’s small mouth. The baby reaches up and rests his splayed fingers against the decorative dots and scars of her dark skin. He closes his eyes.

The small family is just beginning to doze when there is movement in the grass just beyond the circle of their fire. Yusif reaches instinctively for the wooden bom resting beside him just as shapes emerge out of the darkness but relaxes when he hears the soft clink of a goat’s charm. The boys greet him shyly and then sit at a respectful distance. The eyes of their sleepy herds glint like small lights in the night; the boys’ eyes, still brimming over with the remnant of a brilliant light that was theirs alone, never leave the sleeping baby. They are silent until one pulls out a robaba and begins picking out a wiry tune; the song is haunting and holy in its sparseness. Yusif’s also relative appears out of the darkness with a bowl of sorghum aseeda, dampened with a pool of green weka, and a pitcher of water. She pauses when she sees them there, smiles and then raising one gentle fist into the air she lets out a loud trill, her celebratory cry rising alone in the quiet night.


Mariam looks at her baby and wishes she had even a single strand of black and white beads to tie around his wrist. She pulls the ima a bit closer around his small body, worries that he is cold. In this moment of bewildered peace, she cannot yet imagine the gold that lavishly dressed foreigners will one day kneel and place on the dirt floor of her mud hut. Or the night similar to this, when they will run for their lives from the government troops intent on massacre. Tonight there is no place for the future and its unknowns or the past and its dreams. There is only tonight - the animals, a few unwashed boys, a dying fire and a tiny baby, utterly dependent on a poor carpenter and his wife.

Monday, December 2, 2013

The Diaper Bucket

When we came back in from branch meetings in East Africa three months ago, we brought a stash of diapers with us. Annabelle was still un-potty-trained and MaryKat was in cloth diapers during the day but paper at night, so Pampers size 3-4 filled up a modest portion of cargo space on our Cessna caravan charter.

When we got settled into the tukul again I started energetically back into the routine of taking wet and soiled cloth diaper inserts and faithfully depositing them into the big blue bucket full of Dettol water sitting outside our front door and faithfully washing them all by hand every few days and hanging them out in the sun to be zapped dry. Bryan had suggested I hire someone to wash the diapers for me but I somehow cringed at the thought of someone else having to handle my kids poop. And though it’s not a chore I love, I’ll admit to a surge or pioneer satisfaction in seeing rows and clean white diapers hanging on the line and feeling my hands mildly chapped from getting them that way. And there is seriously nothing cuter than seeing a fat baby scooting around in hot pink plastic pants over her cloth diaper (her “super pants” as Bryan calls them). Yes, when we got back I was feeling an almost patriotic dedication to the cloth diaper cause.

This feeling evaporated completely after about one week.

First, of all, I realized I needed every ounce of available energy to cling to sanity in those final weeks in the tukul as the rats were trying to recapture the territory they had claimed while we were away. We had a wave of guests from the outside that meant an uptick in cooking and cleaning in general with not a lot time leftover for washing diapers. Then, here recently, Annabelle practically potty-trained herself (the height of my pride as a parent thus far has to be her nonchalant success over a drop-latrine while I held her over a hole that could swallow her alive covered in flies and general malodorous dampness in a refugee camp while 50 kids squawked for her attention just outside the tarp shielding us), leaving more than enough paper diapers to get us through this term without having to go back to cloth at all. And of course, there was also just the sinking realization that hand-washing diapers is actually not fun at all, whether you are pretending to be Laura Ingalls Wilder or not.

So what started as MaryKat in paper diapers for “just a couple of days” became a luxurious habit that lingered on.

At first the diaper bucket (still full of dirty diapers) was left neglected by the front door under the excuse of, “Just until all our guests leave…” But then we moved into our house and it stayed where it was. Days turned into weeks. Weeks turned into months.

You see where this is going.

Here it is. My name is Elizabeth Harrison and I left a huge blue bucket full of poopy baby diapers half-soaking in rancid water for two months in the blazing sun.

Really.

For a while I think I held out hope that maybe the rats would just magically carry it away one night and I wouldn’t have to think about it anymore, but then I realized even they aren’t that disgusting. I thought about just throwing it all away, burning it maybe, but besides the fact that these diapers were an incredibly generous gift from some very precious friends, the truth is that  that sooner or later I knew I would need the cloth diapers again.

So yesterday, approximately 42 days after I had last peeked inside, I stood armed with three basins of water, a massive bottle of bleach and small tub of detergent and took off the lid to my diaper bucket.

At first glance I thought I was looking at some kind of animal and almost ran to grab a weapon. But then I realized I was just seeing the long fingers of translucent white fungus growing up towards me like amphibious hands reaching up for something to grab on to. Which was both a relief and a disappointment, really.

It. Was. Gross. I won’t go into any more details but let’s just say there were colors and textures and smells in that bucket that were like an entire bayou boiled down and concentrated into about ten liters. I soaked and rinsed and scrubbed and resoaked about a dozen times before I hung them out on the line to let the lovely North African sun do what it does best and kill every last living thing that could have possibly survived.

And you know what? They look good. We lost a couple diapers in the line of duty, true, but the rest are more or less unscathed. I looked at my clothesline full of pastel plastic shells and unbelievably-close-to-white diapers waving in the breeze and felt immensely satisfied. The deep-seeded shame at being the kind of mother that lets her baby’s undergarments rot in water for a month was replaced by the simple happiness of a wrong made right and the redemptive rawness of my hands. Like somehow scrubbing the life out of those diapers (hopefully literally) made up for the neglect and general badness of the situation, for lack of a better word.

As we were crawling in bed last night Bryan said, “You know what? I feel like it’s all starting to lift. We’re in the house, we got the ATV running again, we’re in the swing of language lessons, we finally got a newsletter out, you even got the diaper bucket taken care of today! We are starting to get on top of things again.” And I think he’s right. Life is starting to feel manageable again. Like maybe instead of just running around trying to survive we can start focusing on thriving.

I’m not sure how much the diaper bucket is going to be a part of my practice of thriving, however. In fact, as pleased as I feel about those clean diapers right now, I am pretty sure come Monday morning the sweet lady who washes our clothes is in for a pay raise.